Spending Semana Santa in Mexico City means you'll get clear air and pleasantly empty city streets bursting with spring flowers ... and that you'll probably find a good percentage of your standby cafés and restaurants closed for business. Avoid those unpleasant surprises by heading to Bella Rafaella in Coyoacán, which is open all week. Chef Diego Isunza's breakfast and lunch/dinner menus make it hard to choose just one entrée (though we recommend trying the croque monsieur with hoja santa bechamel sauce at any time of day) and we think the expertly-executed pan dulce here might be pretty close to our definition of transcendence. We bet you'll dream about it well after Holy Week's finished.


A bakery and café full of heavenly pastries and excellent savory foods
The guava rolls. And the fig-filled crossaints. And everything else that comes out of their oven.
Londres 10, Col. Del Carmen, Coyoacán
Mon.-Sat., 8 a.m.-8 p.m.; Sun., 9 a.m.-5 p.m.